Art of making shoes



Oct. 22, 1929. G. E. WARREN 1,732,293

ART OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed April 20, 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Oct. 22, 1929. G. E. WARREN ART OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed April 20, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet Oct. 22, 1929. 5, WARREN 1,732,293

ART OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed April 20. 1923 3 Sheets$heet 3 Patented Oct. 22, 1929 PATENT OFFICE GEORGE E. WARREN, OF SWAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY Application filed April 20, 1923, Serial No. 633,475, and in Czechoslovakia April 25, 1922. Renewed January larly, it is desirable, in order to obtain ultiportion of its periphery,

"tions.

shoes.

mately shoes having the desired shape and attractive appearance, to position the insole accurately on the bottom face of the last both longitudinally and transversely and to maintain such relation until the upper and insole have been secured together in their final rela- A general object of the present invention is to avoid, for securing a sole to a last, the use of tacks, staples or other metallic fasteners such as are commonly employed for that purpose in the manufacture-of welt Accordingly, the invention, in one aspect, comprises a method of making shoes which. consists in providing positioning surfaces at separated points on the bottom of a last and providing corresponding positioning surfaces on a sole, one such surface being formed by offsetting the margin ofthe sole along av and locating the sole on the bottom of the last by engaging with each other corresponding positioning sur faces on the respective parts. 1

The present invention is particularly intended for use in the manufacture of standardized shoes, one type of which is shown and described in a co-pending application of the present applicant, Serial No. 476,659, filed June 11, 1921, but the invention is not limited to use in connection with shoes of that character.

In the illustrated mode of practising the method of the invention, the bottom of a last is proyided with a plurality of shoulders facing toward the respective ends of'the last, with or without a jig hole in the last, and the insole is provided with complemental shoulders or other positioning surfaces. By engaging or alining the respective surfaces, the insole is jigged or positioned exactly and accurately upon the last bottom in predetermined relation to its marginal contour and such positioning is not left, as at present, to the judgment, skill and care of the individual workman. It is to be understood that the invention embraces, also, a last, as an article of manufacture, the bottom of which is provided with shoulders, and, if desired, a jig hole, as and for purposes herein described.

Considered in other aspects, the invention includes an insole, as an article of manufac-. ture, which in the form illustrated, has its margin around one or both of its ends offset so as to provide not only the shoulders above mentioned but also recesses for inturned flanges of the upper of the shoe. Moreover, as illustrated, the insole comprises a plurality of layers of material between the heel ends of which is inserted a reinforcing plate having substantially the contour of the heel end of the insole. This plate serves as a holding means for the nails by which the heel is attached and such reinforcing is particularly useful in a shoe having a short outsole. with an incomplete heel portion. Preferably, also, one or more jig holes, which provide positioning surfaces as already explained, are so located in said plate as to outer or lower layer of the heel portion of the insole but these jig holes do not extend through the inner or upper layer of the insole which, therefore, is smooth and imperforate and covers the jig holes and the nails so as to protect the foot of the wearer ofthe shoe and avoid the discomfort to him which would result if his foot were to contact with said holes and nails.

The invention, as it will preferably be ractised, will now be described in detail with the aid of the accompanying drawings in the course of which description still other features of the inventionwill be pointed out, after which the various features of the invention will be defined in the appended claims,

In the drawings, Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate i to the the invention as applied in the method of makin shoes in which the insole is applied last before it is connected to the upper while the other figures, and particularly Figs. 3 and 4, illustrate the invention as applied to the' manufacture of standardized shoes of the type described in my prior application, above referred to.

Fig. 1 is a perspective View of a last which may be utilized in the practise of the invention and which itself constitutes a feature of the invention;

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing an insole mounted upon such a last;

Fig 3 shows in side elevation, partly in section, a connected upper and insole with a divided last partially inserted therein;

Fig. 4 is a similar view showing the last fully inserted within the shoe;

-Fig. 5 is a longitudinal sectional elevation of the heel portion of the completed shoe;

Fig. 6 is a view in perspective and partly in section of a portion of an insole blank and-of molding apparatus which may be employed in manufacturing an insole of the specific type shown in Fig. 8

Fig. 7 is a similar view illustrating a further molding, and the punehing, of-the insole blank; and

Fig. 8 is a similar view, partly in section, of a complete insole with the flap at the-heel end slightly separated from thebody of the insole.

As illustrated, the shoe includes an insole 10 which, as shown in both Fig. 2 and Fig. 8, is provided with a stitch-receiving rib, or lip, 12 and a feather 14 and which is depressed, or olfset, both at the toe, as shown at 16, and alsoround its rear'end, as shown at 18, to

' form two pairs of shoulders 20, 22. The recessed marginal portions 16, 18 compensate for the corresponding relatively thicker portions of the upper materials at the toe and heel of the shoe due to the presence of a box toe and a counter and also, it may be, a toe cap, as indicated in Figs. 3 and 4. The insole is provided with a pair of jig holes 24 for purposes fully explained in my prior application, above mentioned.

Moreover the rear end of the insole, or at least the upper layer thereof, may be split to form a flap 26 and turned back from the body portion, or outer main portion, 28 of the insole on to its shank portion as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, so as to uncover the jig holes 24 and permit their use in jigging, or accurately .positioning, other shoe parts upon the insole in the course of the manufacture of the shoe. One such part, shown in Fig. 5, is a reinforce in the form of a plate 30 which has substantially the contour of the heel end of the insole and which is provided with similar jig holes to aline with the jig holes 24 and which may be placed between the body of the insole 28 and the last, asshown in Figs. 3 and 4 and I meaaos ends of these recesses terminate in shoulders 42, 44 facing the respective ends of the last and corresponding approximately to the shoulders 20, 22 of the insole. As shown particularly in Figs. 3 and 4, the last comprises separable heel and foreparts which may be inserted successively within the connected upper and insole of a shoe, as more fully explained in-my said application. The heel part of the last is provided with a jig hole 46 into which may be inserted a jig pin48 (Fig. 4).

Such a jig hole and jig pin may be utilized in positioning the insole on the last and they may also be utilized in the assembling of the insole with other parts of the shoe.

When practisihg the invention in the manner illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, it has been found unnecessary to make the recesses in the last correspond in shape exactly to the recesses in the insole and, therefore, the marginal portions of the last at the heel and toe ends, instead of having distinct shoulders, or rabbets, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, may be simply beveled, as shown at 50, 52 in Figs. 3 and 4, terminating, however, in shoulders 42, 44 such as are shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

As shown in Fig. 2, the insole is laid directly upon the bottom of the last and is jigged or accurately positioned thereon in predetermined relation to the contour of the lastfby direct engagement of the positioning surfaces of the lastnamely, rabbets 38, 40 and shoulders 42, 44-withthe corresponding positioning surfaces 16, 18, 20 and 22 of the insole. may aid inthis operation by alining the front jig hole 24 in the insole with the jig hole 46 in the last. ,These' complemental positioning surfaces uponthe insole and upon the last respectively may be relied upon to hold these parts .in their jigged relation without the aid of any tacks, staples, or-the like, such as are employed in ordinary shoemaking, but any suitable holding means may be employed if desired. As fully explained cluding a box toe 56, a toe cap 58 and a counter 60, is preferably molded at its ends with inturned'flanges 62 and 64 tofit the offset portions 16 and 18, respectively,

of theinsole and the heel end of the upper is permanently connected to the insole, as

If desired, also, the jig pin 48 by tacks 66, before these parts are applied to the last. However, even in such case the last after it has been inserted,-as shown in Fig. 4.

As above stated, the present invention also relates to the preparation of an insole of the general type shown in Fig. 8. This insole 10 is made up ,of two or more layers of suitable material which may include a layer 74 of canvas in which the stitch-receiving rib 1-2 is molded and to 'which the other layer or layers 76 are adhesively se-' cured. If desired, the upper or foot-engaging layer may be of leather .or imitation leather, or of other coated fabric material presenting a relatively smooth surface along which the foot of the wearer. will slide easily as it is being inserted into the shoe.

In manufacturing such an insole commercially, it is contemplated that the several layers will he died out more or less closely to, but preferably larger than, their final contour and that then, through the operation of a substantially automatic machine (such, for example as one of the general type fully disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,667,948, dated May 1, 1928, and issued to the assignee of the present application on a co-pcnding application tiled in the name of Frederick H. Perry), the rib"12 will be molded in'the layer 74 6f. the insole. The other layer or layers 76 will be located'accurately and in predetermined relation to the layer 74 and secured permanently thereto by adhesive and under pressure. However, so far as the present invention is concerned, the insole may be built up in a variety of ways and with the aidof simple molding apparatus such as is illustrated diagrammatically in Figs. 6 and 7, wherein a mold 8O is-provided with a groove 82 corresponding in out-line and depth to the rib 12 to lee-formed in the layer of canvas 74. In order to produce in the margin of the insole the offset or depressedportions 16, 18, above described, the upper surface of the end, marginal portions of the mold 80 are iTade somewhat higher than the surface of the adjacent intermediate portion, being joined thereto by short,

inclined surfaces or shoulders 84, 86 corresponding to the shoulders 20, 22 on the insole. A co-operating mold 88, Fig. 6, is provided with molding surfaces generally complemental to those of mold 80 just described including a rib 90 shaped topress a portion of the layer 74 of the insole firmly into the groove 82. thus forming the rib 12. After the ribbed layer 74 has been molded, as shown in Fig. 6, the other layer or layers 76 are deposited uponyand in predetermined relation to the ribbed layer, adhesivehaving been previously applied to/at least one .ly and then to apply them as a unit to the of the two layers in any suitable manner, and then all of the layers, while supported by mold 80, are subjected to pressure by a mold 92, similar to the mold 88 but without a rib suchas rib '90, until'the adhesive has dried sufliciently .to insure a secure connec tion between the layers. Under certain circumstances, it may be preferable first to secure two unribbed layers together permanentribbed layer 74.

As illustrated in Fig. 7, the lower mold has fixed therein two hollow punches 94, corresponding in position and shape to the jig holes 24 to be formed in the insole and these punches project far enough from the' upper face of the mold 80 so that when the layer 76 is pressed down upon them by the mold .92, the punches will pass through the body portion 28 of the insole but will not pass through the flap 26 which, therefore, remains imperforate.. Thus, as pointed out above and also in my application above referred to, the jig holes 24 are located accurately in predetermined relation to the rib 12 of the insole. Moreover, as illustrated in Fig. 7, each punch includes an internal spring-pressed ejector 96 for the punchings, or'pills, and corresponding anvils 98 are mounted in the upper mold 92.

Therefore, in the preparation of the insole as above set forth, the blank is subjected to pressure between the molds so as not only to form the upper attaching rib 12 'and. to secure the layers 74,76 firmly together but also 100 to offset the margin of the blank 16, 18 at its toe and heel ends into a different plane from the intermediate portions of the blank, thus compensating for the thickness of the box ,toe, toe cap and counter of the shoe and, at the same operation, the jig holes 24 are punched in the body 28 of the insole but not through the inner flap 26. The slightly raised surfaces produce-d upon the upper face of the insole by the offset portions 16, 18 not only cause no discomfort to the wearer of the shoe but may even be a distinct advantage in that they tend to cause the insole to fit more closely to the rounded bottom of the foot. The surplus material at the margin of the insole, as shown in Fig. 7, may be trimmed off to locate the edge of the finished insole accurately in predetermined relation to the rib 12 and to the jig holes 24, as shown in Fig. 8 and as set forth in my said prior application.

Throughout most of the operations performed upon the shoe while it is upon the last, including the attaching of the short out- I sole 100 and the heel 102, the jig holes 24 in the insole are uncovered because the flap 26 is turned back from the body 28 of the insole, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and,,a's more fully explained in my said application, thev heel is j igged with respect to the shoe and in predetermined relation to the insole before it is i permanently secured thereto by alining jig ioles 104 in the heel with the jig holes 24 in the insole after which it is secured by attaching nails 106, the heads of which -.seat

themselves upon the reinforcing plate 30 which serves as a holding means for all of these nails 106. Thereafter, the last is removed from the shoe and the flap 26 is turned back over the reinforce 30 and secured thereto so that, in the finished ShOQg the jig holes and nails) are concealed by the flap and the foot of the wearer is also protected against irritation therefrom because the insole presents a smooth; imperforate upper surface.

What is claimed is:

v in the manufacture of shoes, the method which comprises providing positioning surfaces at separated points on the bottom of a last and providing corresponding positioning surfaces on a sole, one such surface being formed by offsetting themargin of the sole along a portion of its periphery, and locating the sole on the bottom of the last by engaging with each other corresponding positioning surfaces on the respective parts.

2. In the manufacture of shoes the method which comprises providing marginal recesses to form positioning surfaces on the bottom of a last and providing corresponding positioning surfaces on a sole by bodily offsetting the margin of the sole at its ends relatively to its central portion, and locating the sole both longitudinally and transversely on the bottom of the last by engaging with each other corresponding positioning surfaces on the respective parts. I

Sfln the manufacture of shoes. the method which comprises providing shoulders on the bottom of a last at points separated longitudinally and providing complemental shoulders on a sole, and locating the sole in pre determined position longitudinally on the bottom of the last by engaging corresponding shoulders with each other.

. 4. lln the manufacture of shoes, the method. which comprises providing in the marginal heel and toe portions of the bottom of a last a plurality of shoulders facing toward the respective ends of the last and providing an in- .sole with complemental'shoulders, and thenlocating the insole in predetermined position a longitudinally on the bottom of the last by engaging the respective shoulders with each other. I

5. In the manufacture of-shoes, the method which comprises providing-the bottom of a last with a positioning surface in its toe pore tion and with a'jig pin in its heel portion, also providing an insole with an offset margin at its too and with ajig hole in its heel portion respectively corresponding in location to said surface and pin in thelast, and locating the insole on the bottom of the last with partly through it.

after applying the sole to the last bottom and locating it thereon by engaging the offset margin and the recess.

7. In the manufacture of shoes; the method which comprises providing the bottom of a last with marginal recesses at its toe and heel ends, also bodily ofi'setting the margin of an insole at its toe and heel ends into a plane or planes substantially parallel to'the faces of the insole and thereafter applying the insole to the last. i

8. lln the manufacture of shoes, the method which comprises providing the bottom of a last with a recess in its toe portion and with a jig hole in its heel portion. also providing an insole with an offset margin at the toe and with a jig hole in its heel portion respectively corresponding inlocation to the recess and the hole in the last. securing an upper to the insole and inserting the last within the upper and insole and alining corresponding surfaces on the respective partsto aid in locating the insole on the last bottom.

9. A method of preparing insoles which comprises subjecting an insole blank to pressure between molds so as to offset its margin adjacent toithe heel end of the blank into a different plane from the adjacent portions of the blank so as to compensate for an extra thickness of upper material at the corresponding portion of the shoe in which the insole is to be incorporated. I

10. A method of preparing insoles which comprises subjecting an insole blank to pressure between molds so as to form in one layer at least thereof an upper attaching rib and. so as to ofl'set the margin of the blank bodily at its toe and heel ends into a, different plane from the intermediate portions of the blank to compensate for the thickness of the box toe and counter of the shoe in which the insole is to be incorporated.

ll; An insole having its margin around its heel end offset with relation to the adjacent portions of the insole to receive an inturned flange of the heel portion of an upper, including a counter, when incorporated therewith in the manufacture of a shoe.

l2. An'insole havingits margin around both its too and heel ends bodily offset into a different plane from the adjacent portions of the insole so as to compensate for an extra thickness of upper materials at the corresponding portions of the shoe in which the insole is to be incorporated. I

13. As an article of manufacture, an insole having a jighole extending into but only 14. An insole comprising a plurality of layers of material and having at its heel end a plurality of jig holes extending through the outer layer but not through the layer which provides the upper face of the insole.

15. An insole comprising a plurality of layers of material and a reinforcing plate having substantially the contour of the heel end of the insole, the outer layer of the insole and the said plate being provided with alined jig holes but the foot engaging layer of the insole being smooth and imperforate.

16. An insole having at its heel end a plurality of jig holes extending perpendicularly from its outer face but not completely through the insole.

17. A method of preparing insoles which comprises securing together a plurality of layers of material with adhesive between them by exerting pressure thereon and at the same operation punching one or more holes in at least one layer.

18. A method of preparing insoles which comprises pressing together a plurality of layers of material and simultaneously punching one or more holes extending only part way through the combined layers.

19. A method of preparing insoles which comprises subjecting to pressure between molds an insole blank comprising a ribbed layer and a layer havinga split end with an adhesive between the layers and simultaneously punching a I plurality of jig holes through the ribbed layer and through a part only of-the split end of the other layer.

20. A method of making shoes which complate serving as a holding means for all of the fastenings and the arrangement being such that the inner layer of the insole is ositioned in the finished shoe to cover the astenings and the reinforcing plate so as to present a smooth surface for the wearers foot.

23. Y A last having in its bottom face around one end a marginal formation constructed and arranged to receive an offset portion of an insole which is to bemounted thereon in the manufacture of a shoe.

24. A last having in its bottom face around its toe and heel ends mar inal recesses extending to the periphery c said face and constructed and arranged to correspond in location to oflset portions of an insole which is to bfi mounted thereon in the manufacture of a s 0e.

25. A last having in its bottom face around its toe end a marginal recess and at its heel end a ig an insole thereon.

26. A last having in its bottom face and its heel and toe portions a plurality of shoulders facing toward the respective adjacent ends of the last and adapted to aid in locating an insole on the bottom of the last.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

GEORGE E. WARREN.

prises providing a last having positioning means, forming .an insole in such manner that the heel end includes an inner flap and an outer body portion provided with positioning means, locating said insole on said last, with the flap uncovering said positioning means on the insole, by bringing said positioning means on the last into engagement with said ositioning means on the insole, attaching other parts including a heel and subsequently laying down the flap over said body portion.

21. A method of making shoes which comrises providing one end of an insole with a ap and the corresponding portion of the body of the insole with one or more jig holes, turning the flap back from said body portion, locating another shoe part in predetermined relation to the insole by utilizing said ji hole or jig holes and securing said part to t e insole by fastenings extending into said body portion and thereafter turning back and securing the flap.

22. In a shoe, an insole comprising a plurality of layers, including a reinforcing plate, the inner layer being separate from the next la or at the heel ortion thereof, a short outso e, a heel, and astenings for attaching the heel to the insole and reinforcing plate, the

hole both adapted to aid in locating 

